Ozu and Uchiko – A Journey Through History, Heritage, and Hospitality

In the heart of Southern Ehime lies a region where Japan’s history, craftsmanship, and hospitality come alive.

Anchored by the castle town of Ozu and the preserved streets of Uchiko, this area offers travelers a deep dive into heritage experiences and sustainable living. Staying in the restored Nipponia Ozu Castle Town hotel creates the perfect base for discovering the cultural treasures that surround it.

Ozu: The Castle Town Rediscovered

Our journey begins in Ozu, a historic castle town often referred to as the "Little Kyoto" of Shikoku. This quaint town, built along the banks of the Hijikawa River, has seen a resurgence in recent years, emerging as a top sustainable travel destination. The restoration of its traditional buildings and the town's commitment to preserving its heritage has drawn global attention. At the heart of Ozu’s charm is the beautifully restored Ozu Castle, which now offers travelers the rare experience of staying overnight within its walls.

Staying at Nipponia Hotel in Ozu
A stay at Nipponia Ozu Castle Town is a journey through time. This boutique hotel, housed in restored Edo-period merchant houses, immerses guests in the charm of old Japan. Rooms blend traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern luxury, featuring tatami floors, shoji screens, and curated antiques. 

Dining is a highlight, with local seasonal ingredients crafted into elegant fusion dishes as a Japanese inspired French course, served on vibrant Tobe Yaki ceramics. The emphasis on local produce—from freshly caught fish to Ozu-grown vegetables—reflects the town’s commitment to sustainability. The Club Lounge, once an Edo-period storehouse, offers a selection of drinks, including champagne, local sake, and mandarin orange juice, which you can enjoy in a relaxing garden terrace.

Each room reflects Ozu's cultural heritage, with some housed in historically significant buildings. The design combines traditional architecture with modern comforts, providing a luxurious yet authentic atmosphere. Whether featuring views of Ozu Castle or showcasing traditional elements like clay walls and plum blossom windows, the rooms offer a serene retreat. Nipponia Ozu merges historical charm with modern amenities, ensuring a memorable and comfortable stay in this historic town.

Garyu Sanso Tea Experience
Just a short walk from Nipponia Ozu Castle Town leads you to Garyu Sanso, a tranquil riverside villa that epitomizes sukiya-zukuri architecture. Blending seamlessly with its natural surroundings, the villa overlooks the Hijikawa River, and the intricate stone masonry at the entrance echoes the river’s flow, symbolizing harmony between nature and human design. As you move through the moss-covered garden, each step feels intentional, drawing you toward the teahouse, Furo-an.

Perched on a cliff, Furo-an resembles a boat, with its woven bamboo ceiling reflecting the craftsmanship and care embedded in every detail. Inside, simplicity and elegance converge—a wide plank of Sendai pine forms the floor, and the space feels both intimate and expansive, bathed in soft light. Sipping matcha from handcrafted ceramic cups, the experience becomes meditative, the view and the sound of the flowing river enhancing the peaceful atmosphere.

Built over ten years by the merchant Torajiro Kouchi, Garyu Sanso embodies a deep respect for traditional tea ceremonies and design. Named "resting dragon" after a nearby mountain, it now stands as a nationally important cultural asset, offering visitors a unique and personal connection to Japan's architectural beauty and serene landscapes.

Ukai Dinner Cruise
As night falls, one of the most enchanting experiences in Ozu begins—a Ukai dinner cruise on the Hijikawa River. Ukai, or cormorant fishing, is an ancient tradition dating back over 1,300 years, and witnessing it from a boat while enjoying a beautifully crafted bento box dinner and sipping champagne is nothing short of mesmerizing.

In a style known as awaseukai, the cormorant fishing boat, lit by dramatic bonfires, glides alongside passenger boats, allowing for an intimate view of the spectacle. The cormorant master, dressed in traditional attire, handles the birds with breathtaking skill. As the cormorants dive into the river, their sleek bodies illuminated by the flickering firelight, you may even feel the splash of water as they emerge with their catch. The fish they capture are prized for their freshness and have historically been offered as gifts to emperors and feudal lords.

The evening takes on a dreamlike quality as you float past some of Ozu’s most iconic sights. Garyu Sanso, its silhouette reflected on the river’s surface, and the illuminated Ozu Castle, standing proudly against the night sky, transport you to a different era. The combination of tradition, nature, and the subtle elegance of the experience leaves you with a profound connection to the heritage of Ozu. As you sip your champagne and watch the cormorants work, you feel a deep sense of reverence for the centuries-old practice unfolding before you.

Exploring Ozu Castle
No visit to Ozu would be complete without a tour of Ozu Castle itself. The castle, originally built in 1331 and painstakingly restored in the early 2000s, offers a fascinating glimpse into Japan’s feudal past. The wooden interiors, narrow staircases, and sweeping views of the surrounding countryside allow visitors to imagine life in the days of samurai lords and castle fortifications. For an even more immersive experience, the castle now offers overnight stays in its keep—a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to sleep in a castle while surrounded by history.

Uchiko: Preserving Tradition and Craftsmanship

Just a short 15 minute drive from Ozu, the town of Uchiko feels like stepping into a time capsule. The main streets of Yokaichi and Gokoku are lined with perfectly preserved Edo-period buildings, offering a glimpse into the town’s prosperous past as a center for traditional candle-making and wax production.

Omori Candle Shop
At the heart of Uchiko’s rich history is Omori Candle Shop, a family-run business that has been producing traditional Japanese candles for over 200 years. Now in its sixth generation, the shop continues the ancient art of candle-making, a craft that dates back to the Edo period (1603–1867). These hand-dipped candles, made from natural vegetable wax, are a sustainable alternative to modern paraffin candles, burning longer and cleaner, with minimal soot.

The candles are crafted using wax from the sumac tree, a process that begins with crushing the tree’s berries to extract the wax. Each candle’s wick is hand-twisted from Japanese paper and rush, wrapped around a bamboo skewer, and dipped repeatedly into warm wax. As layers build up, the candle takes shape, revealing its distinctive nightingale color and thick, tree-ring-like layers at the top.

The meticulous craftsmanship passed down through generations ensures that each candle is unique, with a tall, steady flame that burns drip-free. A visit to Omori Candle Shop offers not just a glimpse into the candle-making process, but also a connection to centuries of Japanese tradition. These elegant candles, make for meaningful souvenirs, allowing you to bring home a piece of Uchiko’s storied past.

Jizaikōbō Blacksmith
For those with a passion for craftsmanship, a visit to Jizaikōbō, a third-generation blacksmith workshop, is a must. Here, you can try your hand at forging a steel candlestick under the guidance of a master blacksmith. The experience of heating, bending, and crafting metal is a thrilling one, and the end result—a beautifully crafted candlestick—will be the perfect companion to the candles bought from Omori.

Odamiyama Gorge and Tarai Udon
For nature lovers, the nearby Odamiyama Gorge offers a serene escape into the mountains. The crystal-clear waters of the river and the lush greenery make it an ideal spot for a peaceful walk, away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. After working up an appetite, head down the mountain to Kajikatei, where you can enjoy Tarai Udon, a local specialty served in a shallow wooden bucket. Dining by the river, with giant koi fish swimming lazily below, is the perfect way to end a day of exploration in Uchiko.

A Living Heritage

Exploring Ozu and Uchiko is more than sightseeing—it is an immersion into Japan’s living heritage. From staying in lovingly restored merchant homes to learning age-old crafts and savoring local delicacies, each moment connects you more deeply with the region’s past. Together, Ozu and Uchiko form a journey into the timeless heart of Southern Ehime.